'All roads lead to Rome' is a refrain constantly repeated in my mind whenever I am away from Rome. It is a gorgeous, modern city that seems only one step removed from its ancient roots; filled with high-spirited people who celebrate life with their laid back Mediterranean style. The iconic ruins, masterful art and distinctive architecture fascinate me like no other city, but it is the delicious cuisine that touches my soul. I am always dreaming of simple plates of pasta with fresh herbs and sauces prepared using centuries-old recipes. This is my love letter to all cuisine Roman.
La
Città Eterna (The Eternal City) is an accurate moniker for a city
more than 2,700 years old. The feeling of antiquity is pervasive as
you walk through cobble stoned alleyways gazing at buildings that
have stood longer than some countries. This sense of history and
tradition also permeates the cuisine of the city.
Most recipes are
the result of generations of Romans preparing them the same way with
little or no variation: bucatini
all'amatriciana is always pasta with tomato
sauce flavoured with black pepper, pecorino
and pancetta. Roman cuisine is not subtle or trendy; it is
designed to be simple, hearty and satisfying with only one or two
herbs taking centre stage.
The
first time that I walked into the old world style dining room of
Cesare, one of the few great restaurants in the vicinity of the
Vatican, I knew that it would become a tradition for me. It is the
kind of restaurant that Romans grow up in: accompanying their parents
as a child, having their very first date, and later bringing their
own children there. The menu never changes, except maybe seasonally,
and the food is always superb. In our rapidly changing world, it
remains a place to come home to.
At the entrance are tanks filled
with all manner of live ‘frutti di mare’ - this is a restaurant
that takes seafood seriously. I always like to begin with a plate of
marinated anchovies that I eat with the hearty bread or a heaping
bowl of vongole, small tender clams, in a white wine sauce. As is the
case with most traditional restaurants in Italy, the menu is
extensive. Besides the fresh seafood, meat is lovingly prepared and
there are fantastic thin, crisp pizzas.
Trastevere,
bounded on one side by the Tevere (Tiber) river, is one of the oldest
neighbourhoods of Rome. In ancient Rome it
was inhabited first by the Syrians and later by the Jewish community.
Their influence is an integral part of what is considered Roman
cuisine; the most ubiquitous dish being carciofi
alla giudia, sautéed artichokes which
almost every humble cucina and upscale ristorante serve.
In recent
history, Trastevere has been an area where artists and bohemians
gravitated, but today it is a definite destination in the evening for
Romans and tourists alike. Paris, a wonderful Roman/Jewish
restaurant, is located here in a 600 year old building. One of the
delicious specialties of the house is ‘fritto
vegetale’, a platter of deep-fried,
ultra fresh vegetables with fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with
mozzarella and anchovies as it’s crowning glory.
One
of the oldest established restaurants in Rome, located across from
the former site of a slaughterhouse, is Checchino dal 1887. It was
originally founded to feed the slaughterhouse workers an inexpensive
hearty meal. The menu still features simple fare, such as coda
alla vaccinara (oxtail stew) and trippa
(tripe), but also showcases grilled meats, pastas and salads.
Trimani,
a stylish, yet casual, enoteca (wine bar and restaurant) in the
vicinity of the Termini train station, is one of my
favourite places for sampling rich Italian cheeses, salami and
prosciutto alongside an extensive list of wines by the glass. I
always begin by indulging my hedonistic appetite for the Italian
sparkling wine, Prosecco, and then move on to a fantastic Barbaresco
or Barolo. Next door to the enoteca is the Trimani wine store,
established in 1827, with an impressive selection of mainly Italian
vintages that number in the thousands.
Roman
style pizza is a very different species from the international snack
that is called pizza. There are strict rules about pizza-making: the
crust must be thin and it must be made in a ‘forno a legna’, a
wood-burning oven. Da Giggetto, in the Porto Pia
area, adheres to these rules and tops their creations with the
freshest ingredients. There are numerous offerings to choose from,
but the classic Margherita, with tomato sauce and mozzarella,
is still the most delicious choice. I don’t always bother with wine
when eating pizza; an Italian beer like Birra Moretti is also a good
companion.
Within
a scene filled with traditional dining,
chic international restaurants do find an audience with the
fashionable set. On the rooftop of the Cavalieri Hilton there is La
Pergola, whose menu is a modern flourish on Mediterranean cuisine.
In the nightlife area of Testaccio, you can find Ketumbar, an homage
to all things Eastern with it’s Malay name, Balinese décor and Pan
Asian menu. Dal Bolognese, overlooking the Piazza del Popolo, is a
haunt for the city’s movers and shakers who have a yen for expertly
prepared Bolognese cuisine.
Dining
in Rome heightens your appreciation of simple
fare that has been elevated to sublime. I may have left my heart in
New York, but it is certain that my stomach and through that, my
soul, resides in Rome.
Reprinted from "Dining in Rome" by Ms Q for HotelTravel.com
